My collar has 7 layers to get that uplift shown around the neck and over the shoulders.
I used the flat-felling of the back mantle panel seams on the inside for vertical ribs, with a layer of hair canvas inside and a layer outside (also flat-felled the hair canvas to get ribbing all the way around for vertical structure).
Then covered the hair canvas with copper linen and pad-stitched using ‘x’ stitches instead of the conventional angled stitches, while rolling the collar towards the neck. This was bowed down in the center back, which is offset due to my scoliosis, to give a central yoke point. Then horizontal stitching was placed across it for tension and weight control cuz this mantle will be heavy when done.
Then used an inner and outer piece of burgundy linen outside of that, stitched together with a stay stitch to keep the seam inside the collar. The outside piece was cut 1/8" shorter then needed so i could pull it to cover the interior burgundy linen seam and to pull the neck roll out to get a perfectly straight collar all the way around. The burgundy linen has a double yoke point in the back for more tension control.
There will be a LOT of trim on this, which was period. And metal zardozi appliques will be sewn on as well. And that is why it’s going to be a heavy beastie. The spacing in this trim image is not correct yet, was just using this to figure out how to set up the trim now that I’m at that point.
This is amazing!. Where did you get your trim. I’m I’m clearly a dope. I was thinking copper linen, what’s that, linen with copper threads, it would certainly be stiffer.. Etc etc.. Until I realised
That’s most definitely a masterpiece! I can’t wait to see the finished result either but since you’ve sewing by hand, I’m assuming that’s going to take some time. Are you planning on wearing this to events?
Whenever I decide to make a new historically accurate outfit, I spend about a year looking over ideas and finalizing what to make. Then easily spend another year looking for trim and fabric that’s on sale. So, I find it anywhere I can.
Since this is my masterclass garment, and I have to take a million photos and submit a disseration to a costume society, I allowed myself to splurge, getting the best linen I could and spending more than I should on it.
I ordered that vast majority of the trim from Etsy. The zardozi metallic applique leaves are from Etsy but are handmade in India. Surprisingly zardozi is not that expensive. I’m using them in place of Or Nué (goldwork) which is what’s shown in the inspiration image and is made from real gold and silver and copper and can take a huge amount of time to do.
Here’s one of the zardozi pieces that will be on the mantle back. It was around $25.00 USD.
When it’s done I will be able to wear it with my Byzantine era outfit, my Burgundian gown, and my Tudor gown. So, it will be worn to the Ren Faire and to SCA events (note: I’m not a member of the SCA) as well as to work at Halloween.
I am hoping to have this year’s outfit completed before Halloween.
