Alright! Thinking of something different to do with the raw edges and I had found something called a French seam, which basically you sew it twice.
Now, for the sleeve, eh, I may not want to do that again, heh. That was really really difficult, and had to do the sewing three times. The first time was a bit closer to the first sewn seam (say that ten times fast, ). That was to keep it in position as I made the final seam. Else, it would have been a little difficult to keep it from puckering.
Also, it seems I still had a problem as the armpit part of the shirt is a bit bunched up, . Maybe if I don’t sew the cross seams completely, that might make that better.
The sleeve not meeting correctly may be why the armpit part of the shirt bunched it up, but I don’t think that small movement would have bunched it up as much as it did. It has to be something else that caused it.
Now, stitching the sleeve like this does take a bit more time to perform, and it looks like there would be some cleanup that would need to be done before applying the second seam stitch. Just to ensure the loose threads don’t poke through the seams.
Did you clip in the round seam? If not, doing that next time might help. I’m not sure how that would work with a French seam though, I’ve not tried it. You’d clip the first seam but not the second.
I thought about it, and had the same thought, heh. I really don’t know how that would work.
Another method that might work, a scrap fabric, make something like a…Hoo boy, I cannot remember hardly any of the sewing terms…Off too google and see if I can find it…binding, that’s it. Using a spare fabric for a binding, and then just sew that over the seams. However…However…That would make it two times more likely to pucker the seams around the sleeves. Ok, that’s out, heh.
In sewing that would typically be called bias tape (it’s exactly the same as binding) and that’s a very fancy way to finish seams. I think it could work for sleeves. My friend made an unlined jacket a while back (in the style of Jackie Kennedy) and that’s how she finished all seams.
Might rethink that and aim for binding. Though, at a later date (Still have to make up lost funds first).
Well, I made a small little test piece to see what would happen if I snipped it, and yeah, that looks awful. However, it’s only visible if you turn the shirt inside out.
Running out of scrap fabric, so, eh, not willing to make another full on shirt test piece, heh, but I don’t think that’s why it bunched up either, or not by itself. It may have happened from the French seam for the sleeve itself, then the sewing over that French seam to add another French seam for the sleeve and shirt side. Maybe, not sure. (I’ll update this with a pic of that seam).
Basically, do the French seam on the sleeve and body. When inserting the sleeve, match seams but make them go in opposite directions. I like to make sure that the bodice seams go to the back and the sleeve seam goes to the front. This greatly reduces bulk.
Hmm! The only difference from what I had done, she had the sleeve already made, where-as I had sewn the sleeve length after I attached the sleeve to the shirt. I’ll have to try it that way and see if it helps. I really hope I can get to it this weekend…Fingers crossed tomorrow goes better than today,
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(Linda -2026 time to regroup and renew :us:)
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I don’t like the construction method of putting in the sleeve before doing the side seams unless the fabric is a knit and can be sergered or zigzaged. I think the fit is not as good as the ease is not quite right.
It is a bit tricky to make the French seam since you have to sew in the round, but it does make for a less bulky seam and a nicer fit.
Definitely going to try it once I can. Hopefully, hopefully, I’ll get at least 50 tomorrow, .
One of the major things on my todo list, is changing the sleeves. I have been watching videos from, I think Cornelius Quiring, something like that, and he had a good discussion about sleeve shapes. I’ve noticed with my shirt it is a bit tight around the arm. I know enough how to widen the sleeves, that won’t be a problem, but changing the angle will be a little more complicated. , I have an idea how it works, but I think I’ll have to experiment with them to find one to my liking, as well as finding a better shape for the patterns that I have.
Oh, speaking of modifying patterns, I’m not sure if it was one of his videos or someone else’s, but I saw someone draft a button up shirt without a separate piece for the placket. Instead, it was cut with the front and back of the shirt. That would be an easy change I could do.
). That was to keep it in position as I made the final seam. Else, it would have been a little difficult to keep it from puckering.
. Maybe if I don’t sew the cross seams completely, that might make that better.
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