This stretch lace fabric was washed before i thought to zig zag the edges which makes me nervous about using it for its purchased purpose, a cardigan. I do not have a serger, just really good stretch stitches on my machine. Should I do a double of stretch stitching or use fold over elastic to encase the edges?
Were you planning to leave the edges raw or hem them, or are you talking about seams?
For hems, zig first, then hem.
Seams: maybe zig twice. It looks too thick to French seam, my go-to for ravelly fabric.
raw edges? bind with something pretty
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The selvedges are scalloped as part of the design so was planning on using them for the hem. Too thick for French seams
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You need input from @MistressJennie or @Magpie they are both very experienced with this kind of thing
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More info is required about your plans, it really depends on how you’ll be putting it together. Also the fiber content, and how you washed it.
Are the selvedges fraying, or just the cut edge? If it’s just the cut edge, I wouldn’t worry too much-- you can zig-zag the edges of all your pieces right after you cut them if they need extra stabilization while sewing. This looks like a pretty normal level of fraying, tho, so while I would recommend enclosing the raw edge or doing a second seam a little way inside your first, I wouldn’t expect it to fray this much once it’s sewn down.
This is the cardi planned to make:
Its not that long on me! It lands about mid butt.
Planned to use the scalloped edges on the bottom.
No idea what the fiber content is - bought it Japan at a 300 yen per meter store with labels I can’t read.
ETA: I washed and dried on medium heat and the ends were not that unravelled.
Are you using the recommended tulle? Cover stitch with a twin needle, or a stretch stitch (& which one)?
Are you an intermediate stitcher or are you feeling a bit more confident than that these days?
I wouldn’t recommend the fusible tricot stabilizer they are suggesting in the construction details, that is not going to work very well with the thickness and dimension of your fabric.
I might add some tailors tape to the shoulder seams to prevent stretch when wearing or hanging up. That can be added to the SA, then the SA folded flat with the tape on top and edge stitched flat. The shoulder seams won’t stretch but be careful not to let the tunic fabric create any folds or tucks. Use some double sided washable tape or even just dabs of glue stick to help hold it in place if needed. That takes care of the raw edge in that spot.
Too thick for french seams but something similar to a Hong Kong Finish could be exceptionally nice for the arm hole, side seams, and the facing around the neck line and front opening. You can use a length of ribbon to enclose both raw edges together rather than bias tape on either side. You can choose a contrasting or matching colour/pattern. Rather than adding bulk to the SA, the ribbon compressing both SA together could actually make it flatter, especially if you trim one side down a little bit to created a graduated layer effect. And there will be no chance of a wobbly zig zag stitch on the edges. Ribbon with some synthetic can be singed on the ends to prevent fraying too so there’s no need to fold over any ends. Since the lace has a scalloped edge, you could use that for the hem and also the sleeve hems, I’m sure it will look gorgeous.
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Thank you! I’m advanced beginner - i just tried french seams on my last Sorbetto top as an example, and just figured out how to do an FBA properly. Haven’t used twin needles but understand the concept.
I’ll probably use an over lock style stitch for the seams and maybe go with ribbon suggestion. Was thinking maybe fold over elastic for the same purpose.
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I downloaded the pattern (free pattern, wow!) & will stitch along with you. It’s a good looking cardi! Solid back for me though, I’m not keen on the see thru.
I can post pics of the suggestions I made if it would be helpful for you?
I think i got it! I made one in regular jersey already and wear it all the time.
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Ah, cool! Did you post it here?
I’d like to find a wool boucle fabric for it, thought I think it would look very nice in wool crepe too. That has no stretch tho.
There’s an independant local fabric shop with some gorgeous bamboo jersey I’ve been looking for an excuse to buy…
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I don’t think so. It was 3 years ago!