I figure the skirt part can be made separate from the top. I’m starting with the top. I think I’m going to try the whole saran wrap/duct tape pattern method for the pattern.
Here are all my questions…
Do you think this style requires boning like a corset?
Is it a corset or would study fabric do without the boning?
For my tester model I’m using cotton canvas exterior and muslin interior. Should there be more layers? Interfacing? If so, what kind do you think?
If I decide on a matching skirt like in the photo, can I make it a separate skirt? (Think elastic waist hidden under the top.) Or do you think it has to be attached to make a full dress?
I plan on making the gap where the lacing is and making one of those inserts that slips behind. Can this be a separate piece or does it need to be sewn to the top for stabilization?
Tips on any of this?
Thanks in advance! I’m not much of a clothing sewing so we’ll see how it goes!
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(Linda -2024 Choose Projects that You Want to Do :us:)
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If you are a beginner clothing maker, I suggest buying a ready made pattern like Simplicity. They have a nice collection of Renfaire clothing patterns in their costumes section (or google and buy online).
Unless it is a true corset you are going after, you probably don’t need boning. In place of boning, you can buy zip ties and insert them in the seams if you want a stiffer feel.
I made tops like that for fancy dress costumes and didn’t use boning and that worked fine. I put in eyelets and used shoe laces. It’s a long time ago but I think I adapted a vest pattern. I think I used interfacing, at least in the pattern pieces I put the eyelets in. Mine looked a lot more like the lady on the left than the lady on the right though. It really depends on what kind of look you’re going for. I’d avoid boning. It’s uncomfortable and a hassle to sew. And you can easily wear a regular bra under this dress so there’s no real need for boning.
My dress and top were seperate, and I think that’s actually easier than attaching them. Plus if you run out of time you can always buy a skirt instead of sewing it. You could make a simple circle skirt or a gathered skirt that you wouldn’t even need a pattern for.
You generally need boning if the garment is expected to provide support. If you’ll wear bust support underneath (or don’t need any), you can skip most of the the boning.
A tight fit can bunch up oddly; boning can prevent that. A looser fit, like a modern dress, wont have that issue.
The lacing will make it bunch up; use boning/stiffening on both sides.
Stiffer fabric will lie more smoothly. Looser fit lies more smoothly, too.
More layers are hotter. What will the weather be like? Ren Faires here are in the summer, too hot for many layers.
Separate skirt would be historically accurate.
I plan on making the gap where the lacing is and making one of those inserts that slips behind. Can this be a separate piece or does it need to be sewn to the top for stabilization?
Do you mean a strip of fabric pretending to be the underdress/camisole? And then add a ruffle to fake the top of the camisole, and somehow attach sleeves? I would just make a whole blouse, probably out of light gauze fabric.
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(Linda -2024 Choose Projects that You Want to Do :us:)
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Same here…way too hot for too many layers! I don’t know how the people who wear a lot of leather garments can even stand it!
I’ve made a few lace up vests with fake suede and got hot just making it! lol
I agree that a nice loose weave cotton for the blouse would be lovely!
The main renfaire where I am going is usually in the fall now…too much mud and too hot in previous years!
Thank you all for the great input! @steiconi I think you’re right about boning the sides at the very least. I may look into more as well. I think I really have to consider the bunching issue, especially since I’m plus size and I would like (and definitely need) bust support.
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Make sure you measure the back length accurately. I find that most bunching issues happen because the length is too long. A lot of patterns are made for a person with a long torso…I have a shorter one so I have to reduce the length or else the “waist” falls below and bunches up on my tummy!
A good boning material is heavy duty zip ties. Sew channels into the underlayer and insert them. If you’re generously endowed, then you do need them.
I would do two layers of canvas with channels for the boning, outer fabric and lining… Try to stick to all cotton or linen, or it’ll get too warm.
I suggest boning at the bodice edges in the fronts, put your lacing outside that, so when you pull on the lacing, it pulls against the boning. This saves an over enthusiastic person ripping your beautifully handsewn eyelets, in your gorgeous red velvet dress, when lacing you in.
A separate skirt is easier to make. But the skirt is often laced to the bodice in a few points to avoid it riding up. If you make the skirt as two rectangles sewn together, folded over the top with either elastic or a drawstring, you can leave gaps from the waist down about 5" (your chemise should be long enough so that no skin is showing) you can add a sneaky pocket to the inside, as pockets weren’t invented in the renaissance.
Ditto this advice. I do boning up the front inside the laces and 2 on each side. I also like a second lacing up the back so it can be more adjustable. Then i just tuck skirt up underneath and do scarf tied at the waste if needed.
