I had some requests to modify the Fastest, easiest fitted mask pattern I posted earlier so it could be made with different fabric for the front and lining and here it is.
Do yourself a favour and read through the entire tutorial once before starting, some people have gone with just a quick glance at the photos and made some mis-steps. Reading through will not be a waste of your time, I promise.
@Kwality570 kindly rendered it and posted to G-docs, I neglected to add the 1" square for accuracy but it’s basically the same mask as the first pattern so print them both out if you need to compare sizes. I tried a LOT of darted patterns and none of them fit as well as the original I drafted so I just thought why not stick with what works.
You can see how I flattened the top edge for a fold that rests against the bridge of the nose for maximum comfort and fit.
I recommend creating a whole pattern as shown because it would be easy to misalign that narrow fold and cut a wonky fitting mask. Make note of the fabric grain, don’t cut this on a bias or it will stretch all kinds of weird.
When cutting front and lining pieces, DO NOT cut right up to the curved line as shown in the white fabric in the middle, you need to leave a bit of fabric because that curved line is the stitching line. I applied interfacing to the fabric before cutting rather than cutting that out in another step, this saves a lot of time for me.
You can see here how you need that extra fabric.
Sew and trim the seam allowance, I’m using a 3/8" seam allowance, you can use that or 1/4" which changes the sizing a bit so experiment. (this mask comes out a bit bigger than the original pattern, choose your seam allowance accordingly)
I’ve found pinking shears much faster than cutting away the extra fabric and snipping the curve.
Edge stitching the front seam allowance is optional.
Either way, make sure to press it in one direction and the lining seam allowance in the opposite direction so they can be lined up as shown:
The sides are sewn from the edges of the fabric as you see here. Start the top and bottom curved lines about 1 1/2" from the side stitched lines, leave a gap for turning at the bottom curve.
Trim the seam allowance as shown with pinking shears or clip the curves. Do not trim as far as the stitching, see how I’ve left about 1/2"? That is important.
Turn mask right side out, The 1 1/2" space left beside the side seams should be enough to pinch the opening so you can see the seam allowance and make sure it is open as shown, one side to each of the stitched line. You should have enough space to stick a finger or pencil in and readjust if necessary.
Fold over the seam allowance as shown. This step is really quite simple and quick, just try it and you’ll see. Press the mask at this point, it can be tempting to skip this step but it does make a difference and you’ll get much better results if you spend 2 minutes with the iron to align the seams before edge stitching.
Insert the nose wire in through the turning gap and press it right up against the top seam allowance, pinning the wire in place as shown. This is different fabric here, I’m borrowing photos from the previous mask for this step.
The edge stitching is done in one continuous line including securing the wire in place. Don’t bother to back stitch as the end of the line will overlap where it started. Start where my finger indicates about 1/2-3/8" from the side edge, sewing around the entire edge, edge stitching about 1/8" from the top and bottom curved edges.
To sew around the wire, pivot with the needle down, take a stitch or two to the bottom edge of the wire, pivot and sew right up against the bottom of the wire so it is snug, pivot again at the end and continue edge stitching to the side seam, stitch 1/2-3/8" from the side edge, edge stitch 1/8" from the bottom curved edge.
I made a few in medium and small, they fit just as well as the original mask pattern.
If you are inserting a tie, I have been using about 8" for behind the ear style. I will cut a bit more and leave the ends untied so people can fit their own faces.
There are lots of tools you can use.
Pinch the end open to avoid catching the seam allowance.
Crochet hook is easiest for me, I angle it like this to avoid catching the seam allowance on the way out.
Tie the ends, fit the mask, tighten the knot, trim off extra and pull the knot into the channel.
Large fits a man, med woman or older teen, small around 7-15 years old depending on size, extra-small under 7.
Interfacing makes for a better mask. If you are going to use it on only one part of the mask, put it on the lining rather than the outside fabric. I’ve tested this and it does work to keep from sucking in a mouthful of fabric on each inhale. On one mask I put it on the front and not the lining, I remedied the suffocation factor by edge stitching up the centre seam to attach the lining to the front fabric. It’s not perfect but it was an improvement at least.
A nose wire created a better fit and will help hold the mask up instead of slipping down and needing to be adjusted. Use about 4 inches of wire, anything that won’t rust. If you’re not sure, soak it in water overnight, then set it out on a piece of paper towel to see if it gets rusty.
Wash masks in a mesh bag and iron them when dry so they keep a good shape that’s comfortable to wear on the face. I’m not high-risk so I’m keeping a mask in the car for grocery trips and just leaving it in there on the dash. It gets worn for about an hour weekly, I don’t feel it needs frequent washing. When I wash, I hang to dry. You could also put a mask into a mesh bag and run it through a dryer cycle on high heat without washing it.
Ties can be replace with elastic, ribbon, twill/tailor’s tape, tshirt yarn, or strips of nylon stocking, shoe laces work too, particularly for behind the head ties rather than over the ear.